Posts in Kenya
Kenya's "Jade Sea": The Road to Lake Turkana

Those who have driven to Kenya’s Northern Frontier District will most likely agree that the region feels completely set apart from areas south of the Equator. North of Archer’s Post - the nearest town to Samburu National Reserve - the fertile hills of the highlands dissolve into semi-arid desert framed by distant mountains. Sacred Mount Ololokwe looms majestically over the tarmac road, its façade permanently glazed with sunlight…

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Something About Samburu

Driving north up the Thika highway from Nairobi and that familiar feeling of excitement settles. I must have driven this route hundreds of times but leaving the dual carriageway for the scenic single lane up to Mount Kenya and beyond is a journey I’ll never tire of. Mangoes in Sagana, the ever-chaotic town of Karatina, young guys on the roadside selling sacks of miraa… Climbing higher and higher in altitude the temperatures become colder. Past Lewa Conservancy, down, down, down towards the dusty, desert heat of Isiolo, the land of Boranas, Turkanas, Samburus, Rendilles, closer to the wilds of northern Kenya. A few hours north of here and the edgy city life of Nairobi is but a distant memory.

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Segera Retreat: A Review

The great migration has finally arrived in Kenya where the Mara River takes centre stage each year for one of the world’s greatest wildlife spectacles. The Masai Mara boasts the highest concentration of wildlife in Kenya and is a wish list destination for most first-time safari travellers. Yet there are many other regions to explore and some, where unlike the Mara, you’ll barely see another soul during your visit.

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Heri ya Krismasi (Merry Christmas!)

Everybody loves Christmas, right? The universally-accepted time of year to delve head first into the party spirit, overeat, overdrink, overspend, and generally wade in frivolity for the best part of a week. This December was the first I’ve been in London for a while. And despite being unwillingly ploughed into the spirit of Christmas advertising as far back as September, and the first lights appearing in all their prematurity by first week of November, I’ll admit to having loved the joviality of London’s festive buzz, taking my niece to Santa’s Grotto, gift-wrapping, drinking hot chocolate, pottering around the West End beneath an awning of sparkly decorations, shops full of things you really don’t need but contemplate buying anyway.

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Ol Jogi: the Grand-Dame of Laikipia

Kenya is a pioneer of the “original” wildlife safari. Popularised throughout the 20th century, with great novels and films depicting an era of romance and high adventure, it remains to this day a destination of great diversity. An impressive cross section of landscapes makes this a compelling country to explore – wild savannah, interminable grassy plains, the snow capped peaks of Mount Kenya, forests suffused with birdsong, huge deserts, ancient Swahili settlements, and vast private ranches. Tourists flock in their droves each year for a sighting of the great wildebeest migration – the 8th named wonder of the world - and there is a seemingly endless and ever-expanding choice of lodges, tented camps, and safari operators. Yet when it comes to the calibre of seriously world class luxury at the very top end, there is relatively, and surprisingly, little to choose from...

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